STINKY FRUIT : GANGSTA MONEY
The durian, Southeast Asia’s yellow or green thorn-skinned fruit, is one of the world’s most distinctive-smelling delicacies. Many people, when first catching a whiff, are apt to say it simply has a near-unbearable stink.
It is also experiencing a startling surge in consumer demand, particularly in China, where imports of the head-sized fruits have quadrupled since 2019. As Matthias Kamp writes in today’s Weekend Read, this is bringing new prosperity to regions such as Thailand’s Chanthaburi province, where some of the highest-quality products originate.
But like all booms, this one has a dark side. Thai growers say the big Chinese companies that dominate processing and international distribution of the fruit are engaging in ruthless business tactics in order to keep prices down, making life increasingly difficult for farmers and smaller competitors. Rising production levels in other countries such as Vietnam and Laos may take some of the froth out of the market over time, but for now, the stinkiest gold rush is bringing aggravations along with its advantages, Kamp writes.
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